WIOW: The 21st & 18th Duster
Handmade from the wallpaper of the Timken Museum of Art
Longtime Readers of 21st & 18th will know that our Art Apéritifs segment has featured several voices in the art world from leaders at the Barnes Foundation to the Huntington Library, the Morgan in New York City and the drool-inducing-Gilded Age Newport Mansions plus more - we here at 21st & 18th, and when I say ‘we’ I mean me, have made it our business to interview and collect behind the scenes insights from leadership at some of the best museums, art galleries and institutions around the country. One of those such wonderful voices spotlighted on Art Apéritifs is Derrick Cartwright of the Timken Museum of Art.
The Timken Museum of Art is often described as San Diego’s ‘jewel box’. A small yet mighty art collection made safe within travertine walls designed by architect John Mock for Frank L. Hope and Associates in the middle of Balboa Park. The Timken is always free and hanging within are truly one of a kind pieces made by the hands of Rembrandt, Van Dyck, Hals, Rubens, Fragonard, Boucher and more. With that introduction, I believe you get the picture. The Timken is fabulous, and next time you’re in San Diego, you should certainly make the time to visit.
Why are we talking about the Timken Museum of Art? The answer is simple, my current obsession: The 21st & 18th Duster, is from the Timken.
Confused? By ‘from’ I mean ‘of,’ specifically, the fabric used to make The 21st & 18th Duster was formerly on the walls of the Timken Museum of Art. Incredible, right?
To elaborate, the Timken’s walls were upholstered in custom woven fabric in the 1980s. This fabric is salmon in color with a beige diamond-like pattern repeated all over, and in 2021, amidst a museum renovation, was removed from the same walls. See below for images of the Timken Museum of Art with its 1980s pink fabric walls.
When the fabric came down it went into museum storage (this is where I come in) and was resting, waiting for something to be done with it.
Through the wonderful leadership team at the Timken, I was gifted a little more than 15 yards of this Timken ‘wallpaper’. With this gift, I promised to craft something spectacular, and I’m glad to share: I have done just that.
With the help of my mother, Trudie, who is an excellent seamstress, together we created and brought The Duster to life.
The Design
Spoiler, I am in the midst of launching a line of Uniforms, ie. pieces that can be manipulated like equation inputs to keep you looking elegant, chic and put together day over day without trying too hard, all of these pieces will be inspired by history and characters from the past I research here in the world of 21st & 18th.
When I began designing The Duster I wanted a piece that could be dressed up or down, one that could be worn often but something that did not resemble a utility coat. My mind immediately went to two of my favorite outerwear pieces: a beige trench coat by Australian brand DISSH and a purple vintage opera coat by Spiegel (no longer in business, Spiegel was founded in 1919 and closed its doors in 2020). See both coats below.
In designing a new piece of outerwear I did not want to create a trench coat, too utility feeling with the belt and buttons, and on the formal side of things, on opera coat would not get pulled from the wardrobe as often as it could.
From the trench coat, I borrowed its dexterity and designed a coat with a removable hood, long sleeves and pockets.
From the opera coat, we carried over the hidden closure at the middle of the chest and bell-like shape.
With my two tangible pieces of inspiration, I headed to Pinterest and began building a board to further inspire the design.
I began sketching a design and with the help of old Vogue patterns and my mother’s sewing know-how, we landed on a design for a piece of outerwear with the following attributes:
100% silk lining
Long sleeves with body that taper at the wearer’s wrists
Hidden button closure at the top center of the coat
A starched collar designed to be worn laying flat or standing up
Two deep hand pockets
A removable hood also lined with silk
The Result
The Duster turned out to be incredibly elegant and comfortable. I gave it a test drive on Easter Sunday and other than the day being the big holiday for the ole JC, she was the showstopper when I walked into a packed church. Jaw drops (literally), loads of compliments and several, “Where did you find that coat”?
