31 March 2023, San Diego, California, USA
Hours of my life have been invested into the launch of VF minis.
If you’re thinking, Obviously it takes more than a few minutes to write articles for , yes, you are correct. Let me reverse, I am not referring to the amount of time invested into this article, rather I am referring to the hours of life I have invested into watching every 1990’s Fall Winter (FW) and Spring Summer (SS) couture show from Gianni Versace on the Fashion Channel1 via YouTube.
I have been watching these runway shows, in full, on 2x speed, to get through them as quickly as possible without missing details, and, surely for some licensing reason, these videos no longer have their original music accompanying them, rather it is opera or strange spa music. The music coupled with the speed and old school footage is like a trance. After hours of this stuff, I feel high on spandex and gold silk, have been hypnotized by medusa buttons, and cannot stop thinking about Linda Evangelista’s2 beautiful green eyes.
Right. Can it, Lo.
Why, you ask, have I been watching all this Fashion Channel? Or why did I subscribe to Vogue’s runway archives (best $123 I’ve spent in a while)? There is one reason only. My VF minis subject: my recently acquired Gianni Versace skort suit.
I am a woman incensed. I. must. locate. the skort suit’s. provenance.
Before we dig into my quest for the exact year, season and date this skort suit came to be, shall we pay a visit to the House of Versace? Indeed, yes, I think we shall.
It is always a hoot to remember there are people, families behind these fashion houses or the brand name engraved on your handbag. People who were creative, angry, sad, happy, close to their siblings, in love, not in love - people who were everything - behind the clothes we wear, own, covet, like on social, or next! on the rack while shopping.
For me, as I now work in the world of apparel design and manufacturing (plus surf and skate), it is impossible not to consider the people behind fashion. Those making clothing and accessories, designing it, selling it and even packaging and shipping the pieces. While researching the history of Versace, chiefly because my brother founded and together we run a concept called Imperfects, I could not cease pondering about the family dynamics and people behind the global, glittering Versace operation.
Part 1. Meet me in Calabria.4
The year is 1946. This is a big year. WWII just ended, Japanese women gain the right to vote for the first time, Ho Chi Minh is elected president of North Vietnam and sends the French packing, the Kingdom of Hungary becomes a republic and Singapore a crown colony, the USA begins testing of nuclear bombs, Manuel A. Roxas becomes the 5th president of the Philippines and gains the country its independence from the USA, the 18th Academy Awards ceremony is held in Los Angeles, the United Nations General Assembly and Security Council gather for the first time in New York and London respectively, Japan and Korea hire female police officers for the first time, female suffrage is enacted in Belgium, Romania, Yugoslavia, Argentina and the Canadian province of Quebec, the Chinese Civil War rages on, and, among others, Dolly Parton, Alan Rickman, Liza Minelli and Giovanni “Gianni” Versace5 are all born.
Gianni, let us call him by his most recognized name, was raised by his parents, a mother, Francesca, a dressmaker and father, Antonio. There were four children, Tina6, Santo, Gianni (our boy), and Donatella.
As the story goes Gianni grew up fascinated with his mother’s work as a dressmaker and was highly engrossed in learning from her and helping in her shop. The family lived in Reggio Calabria, a coastal, Southern Italian city. It is incredibly beautiful. Lush and sparse in the way only beach towns are, and the light feels luxurious - even from my Googling. Reggio has its civilized roots in ancient Greece and much of the architecture and ancient history that runs through its cobbled and winding streets is said to have had a great influence on Gianni - store this bit in your pocket for later.
After graduating from high school Gianni worked with his mother in a short apprenticeship before moving to Milan in 1972. Now this is really fascinating, rather than doddle about in the big city he just get straight, ASAP into it, working in several Milanese fashion houses: Genny7, Complice8, Mario Valentino9, and Callaghan10. After working for others, Versace struck out on his own backed by the Girombelli's, founders of Genny and Complice, in 1978.
Gianni Versace SpA was born.
Gianni was Creative Director and Founder, his brother Santo, CEO, and sister, Donatella11 was a designer and Vice President. That same year Gianni Versace staged its first ready-to-wear show.
Super impressive, Gianni. In 6 short years you have found your calling, honed your craft and started your own business. Let us hear it for Gianni!
Across the 80’s and 90’s Versace, under Gianni’s creative direction, made a global name for itself by pushing the limits. The audience’s limits. Experimenting with how sexuality, sensuality and femininity were expressed via fashion.
His haters were hating noting that his designs were gauche and vulgar, lacking sophistication. However in watching back his runway shows from 1990 - 1997, before his untimely murder12, Gianni is such such fun. His designs sometimes lack a polished, ivy league, PHD energy, but they are ultimately, much closer to reality and how women dress themselves - not all OOTD’s deserve to make it on the grid, if you catch my drift.
In researching and reviewing many of Gianni Versace’s collections, it is not lost on any viewer, with a brain, how spectacular his rolodex of models, excuse me supermodels, is.
Naomi Campbell, Claudia Schiffer, Kirsty Hume, Cindy Crawford, Linda Evangelista, Karen Mulder, Christy Turlington, Helena Christensen - the list of iconic names goes on and on.
Gianni, the man, was a marketing and branding genius and Versace, the brand, was causing the public the salivate.
Vibrant colors, sexy designs, relatable, remembered names and women who embodied it all making you feel like you were in on what was happening during fashion week all the way from your 9-5 in New Jersey (sorry NJ).
He mastered involving you, us, people - even those who may have been in the market for the 4 dollar sign products of Versace. The social capital and glamour of his brand, shows and stores were amplified by the general public’s understanding and recognition of the models wearing his products. Versace felt closer to home yet still out of reach. How much more luxury can luxury get?
Part Deux. Where does 21st & 18th fit in?
My little sister, Beetle, is engaged. Getting married this fall. She is fabulous, a force of nature, lithe and tall, modeled during her university years, and extremely opinionated - like comes-to-family-dinner-with-a-gavel-in-hand opinionated. Suffice it to say when she became affianced we began a country wide shopping bonanza to pin down her wedding fashions.
While we will not tuck into all the details of our shopping journey in this article, I am glad to say our travels brought us to West Hollywood back to Happy Isles. While we were at Happy Isles for Beetle, I had to pull some things for me, right?
Regardless, of your thoughts, I did, and TG.
I tried only two pieces on: a vintage evening gown from Hong Kong and a Versace suit. We wrapped up the suit.
This suit stole my heart and dollars because 3 things:
Houndstooth + black + white = always classic
Double breasted and stronger, semi padded, shoulders are back and I have always had a thing for the sailor look - shiny gold buttons, symmetry, uniform-esque
It is a skort. A SKORT. I have not owned a skort since the elementary days at Nativity and those were good days
Digging into where and when this skort suit was made.
From it’s style, branding and wear we know it is 1990s, pre-Gianni’s murder (pre 1997). The suit was made in Italy of wool and the jacket is lined with what feels like taffeta.
Additionally the buttons! The buttons have helped me narrow down the suit’s year. To start, Versace’s buttons are legendary, typically you will recognize them by medusa’s visage surrounded by a Greek key border. See below for reference.
However sometimes and in certain seasons, Gianni would change things up and feature new buttons and trims. For example, on my suit behold the same key border, yet this time, the nucleus focal point is a maltese13 cross.
This is really interesting. The different and rare-er Versace buttons give this suit a low-key smartness. Unique product characteristics also tend to be a fantastic method for dating a vintage find.
While in the nth hour of my research, I found this old Tumblr, The Gianni Versace Vault, ie. the Gringott’s of Versace rabbit holes. In my ages of scrolling I found this one photo of Claudia Schiffer in Milan, year unknown, but it screams 90s, in a double breasted black coat with, zoom zoom in, the Versace maltese cross buttons.
While I cannot seem to date the photo precisely, it is credited to Doug Ordway14, a prominent fashion photographer who worked closely with Gianni and Versace - he was photographing all of Versace’s supermodels in the 90s.
In addition to the buttons, my extensive expedition into the Versace runway archives lead me to believe my suit dates from 1991 - 1992, as during these FW and SS collections Versace was keen on pleats, flirty lengths, trim cut bodices to accentuate the waist and color blocking accents in black or white that, again, are so flattering to the feminine form.
Houston, I think we have found our year(s). 1991 - 92.
In truth, I am still searching for the exact moment this suit came into being, and fear not, I will prevail.
Ahead of then, a couple additional interesting facts.
Today in March 2023, when searching the Versace site for ‘skort’ one comes up with nothing. No search results whatsoever.
This is a Vintage Finds feather in my cap - it helps my acquisition feel all the more special and unique.
VF minis will include a Part II, where I will share how to style a 1991/2 Gianni Versace Skort Suit à la Lo. Lynch in 2023.
Until then, I leave you with these reminders of how raucous and epic the 90s truly were.
If you have made it this far, why not subscribe? Join our Paid Subscriber-ship to gain access to all 21st & 18th articles and our Slack Channel where we take part in salacious discussions on art, fashion and history - plus gossip about where I find all of my Vintage Finds and how much they cost. Sound fun? I think, yes.
From one fashion family to another, thank you for these pieces, Gianni. We appreciate you.
I shall return in two days.
Ciao,
Lo. Lynch
Highly recommend checking some of these out. Start with SS 1992 in Milan - p.s. sound on!
Canadian super model. Intense red hair in SS 1993 show, she’s fascinating reminds me of a beautiful lizard
If you subscribe now, a 12 month Vogue subscription is $12, down from its usual $24, plus you get a free tote bag. Deals, baby, deals.
Italy. If you did not know this, please get yourself a globe and keep Google open on your phone’s browser open at all times
What a line up of characters: Mrs. 9 to 5 icon, Professor Snape, Liza ‘Cabaret’ Minelli, and our main man G
Sadly, Gianni’s elder sister Tina passed away at age 12 after a mis-treated tetanus infection
Italian brand founded in 1962, has a sexiness that is reminiscent of Gianni, see their current Ready to Wear line for reference
A concept that no longer produces, it was founded by Genny in 1975, keep an eye out for vintage floating around the fashion sphere
Italian fashion house founded in 1966, The Met has an interesting dress in their collection and Vogue Runway archives has coverage of their first ever show in New York in 2001. Look for vintage across the interweb
After Gianni’s death she took over design for the fashion house and still operates the creative for the concept today - Boss woman
Gianni Versace was murdered on the front steps of his Miami, FL home on July 15, 1997 by serial killer Andrew Cunanan
Cross symbol consisting of 4 inverted V’s, it is said to be a protective symbol warding off bad people/spirits. Legend has it that crusaders wore the maltese cross to send them into battle with good luck and protection
Ordway remains an active photographer today and has a fantastic page on his site devoted to Versace history
Reading & watch list:
- Google: Versus Istante
- The Gianni Versace Vault: https://thegianniversace.tumblr.com/ (idk who you are but bless you)
- Fashion Channel on YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/@FashionChannel
- Fashion Model Directory: https://www.fashionmodeldirectory.com/
- Vogue Runway: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows